Tag Archives: vietnam

6 coffees you will try in Southeast Asia

Let’s face it, there’s no point going overseas if you’re not going to take your tastebuds with you. With food it’s okay, you can explore and still find that subtle flavour you so comfortably enjoyed back home, with a little spice or flair. But when it comes to your favourite percolated brew the choices are endless. Sometimes you can be in a country where the barista has no clue as to what a cappuccino might be, so you’re going to have to step out of that comfort zone, and find a new temporary brew.

Chances are, if you are reading this, you know know the struggle. How do you tell him you want a small cappuccino when the board only says ‘hot/cold coffee’. Or how do you don’t him no sugar, when all he has is condensed milk? You’re pot out of luck – time to get some of that tasty glucose in your drink, you’ve got no choice.

The following are seven coffees that I have had while I’ve been galavanting across my favourite part of the world, Southeast Asia. I hope this list teases out some cultural differences in the way we drink, what we drink and how we drink coffee, and it will go to show that no matter how contrasting our worlds are, I still get my morning fix of a nicely blended brew.

Turkish coffee (Türk kahvesi)

The first type of coffee, or more correctly, preparation of coffee, is Turkish coffee. I say preparation because Turkish coffee is not a specific blend or bean. Turkish coffee refers to how the coffee is prepared. I first tried this in a Turkish restaurant in Malaysia – points for being obvious as to the type of restaurant.

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Turkish coffee and bread

My coffee was ordered with dinner, where the waiter responded “are you sure? It’s strong.” He wasn’t wrong either. The strength of the coffee is due to the fine grinding of the roasted beans, which is said to be the finest texture of ground coffee in comparison to any other. When I tried it I opted for the plain flavour, more commonly referred to in Arabic as ‘sada’. The coffee itself was served in a Turkish coffee pot made of copper with a wooden handle, this is the customary way for the coffee to be served and is poured into a small coffee cup. But before drinking it is common practice to cleanse the pallet with a glass of water.

The waiter also told me Turkish coffee is an integral element of the Turkish wedding process. The groom’s parents visit the bride’s family and the bride prepares the coffee for the guests. She spikes the groom’s coffee with salt so as to gauge his character.I later confirmed this through a friend of mine who further elaborated that if the groom loves the girl he will drink the salty coffee without so much as a peep of complaint.

Vietnamese Coffee – Iced (Ca phe sua da)

I have a severe sweet tooth and while it is an uphill struggle, I generally try to eat (and drink) healthy and limit my sugar intake. With this in mind, I became addicted to the second drink in the list, the sugary Vietnamese local coffee ca phe sua da. Vietnamese coffee shares a similar fine texture to Turkish coffee. The roasted French coffee beans are dripped through the iconic Vietnamese filter into a quarter of a glass of condensed milk and poured on ice – all of this which is done by you in the cafe, so that you experience the journey of your own drink. Condensed milk is the staple ingredient for these coffees, so you can start to see why you have no choice if you don’t take sugar.

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Vietnamese coffee (travelovietnam)

Ca phe sua da is a contemporary, yet nostalgic, reminder of the French influence so strongly displayed in Vietnam after its 19th Century colonisation. Especially with this style of coffee and the trend of using French beans such as Cafe du Monde. However, the Vietnamese Startbucks equivalent Trung Nguyen also does a good blend and has franchises on every corner in the main areas of Vietnam.

While I may have mentioned there was a French influence in Vietnam, the country itself has since become a world leader in the coffee export industry through its industry in the central highlands. Ho Chi Minh has had boutique cafes spring up in the past decade to take advantage of the great architecture and ambition of young local coffee enthusiasts. I spent some time in Vietnam so had the privilege of exploring a few of these boutique cafes, but my favourite for ca phe sua da, and popular with locals, was L’Usine.

Kopi Luwak – the cat coffee

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The civit

When I first heard of this coffee I thought someone was pulling my leg. There is no way a market can exist for coffee that has been excreted by an animal. But to my surprise it is true – kopi luwak is the end product of a bean that has been eaten by an Asian palm civet, a small cat-like creature native to South and Southeast Asia, digested, defecated, collected by farmers and cleaned and roasted.

FullSizeRender-39.jpgThe coffee is said to have higher nutritional qualities and a greater taste after it has made its way from cat to cup.

Due to the nature of supply and supposed delicacy, it is again a surprise that people are willing to pay a lot of money for this coffee as it is considered a rarity both to locals and to foreigners. Retail prices can reach more than $800AUD/€550. I brewed a Bodum full of this kopi luwak in inspiration for this article and to be honest, it doesn’t appeal to me for a $15 cup. Aside from the fact I am currently drinking coffee beans picked from an animal’s faeces, the coffee itself has a strong dull taste that leaves the mouth quite powdery.

Indian filter coffee (kaapi) or meter coffee

I first tried kaapi in Jakarta, Indonesia. Indian filter coffee is, like Turkish coffee, in reference to the mode of preparation rather than the actual beans per se. The beans I tried when I first tried it with were Arabica blend which are grown in the southern parts of India. When you order it in a traditional sense, there are a number of parts to the preparation of the coffee. That, and you have to wait as it is a slow drip coffee, slower than Vietnamese coffee too – so don’t be in a rush for a quick cup.

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Indian coffee drip cups

The process allows the top cup to hold on to the water a little longer so as to extract more of the coffee as it passes into the final cup – this long process creates a strong coffee. In fact, I don’t recommend having this one as an after-dinner coffee, because you’re probably not going to sleep. I have only had the privilege of having two of these types of slow drip indian coffees and both of them blew my socks off. I would say one cup is on par with two espressos – in terms of strength.

The second time I had this coffee was in Kuala Lumpur in Little India. I told the barista about my experience and he said I’d been shown half of the process – and this is where the real fun started with this coffee. He proceeded to mix the coffee with boiling milk and with a metal cup in both hands poured the mixture from cup to cup with his arms stretched out. That was where the term meter coffee clicked in my head. For a demonstration, watch this video.

Buttered coffee

I first read about this in a paleo craze article on a blog I subscribe too. It was first introduced as ‘Bulletproof’ Coffee and now it has taken over as the coffee for health fanatics. I had never subscribed to the idea of trying buttered coffee and the thought seemed like slapping god in the face and ruining a perfectly good drink. That was until I went for a coffee in a small side street market stall in Penang and was convinced by the owner to try his ‘special’ coffee. I thought to myself I had better scribble out a will on a napkin in case he drugs me, but turns out his special ingredient was a lump of butter.

So how did he come across this recipe? He said his family was not well off in India and could not afford repairs to their fridge so they were not able to keep milk. Before work each morning his father would put butter in his coffee instead of milk. Lo and behold, this man now runs a lucrative business in Penang riding on the back of his families misfortune.

To be honest the taste was surprisingly amazing. I am waiting for this to kick off in health-driven cafes in Australia with a grass-fed butter option.

Coffee in a bag

I put this one in more as a joy than as a type of coffee. Drinking coffee out of a small plastic bag with a straw slipped in the top is commonplace in South East Asia for three reasons: it’s cheaper than disposable cups, they don’t fill up the bins as much and are very convenient to hang off the handlebars of a scooter or bike – innovative isn’t it?

All of the coffees I ordered in bags were requested with a simple “white coffee” and “iced” for the local barista, FullSizeRender-38.jpgwhich, if you are travelling in remote areas such as Johor Bahru, is about the only thing one would understand in English in my experience. That is, until I learnt how to pronounce “coffee”, “white” and “cold” in malay. These are much like the finalised version of the ca phe sua da in Vietnam with the sweetened condensed milk used in the coffee. When I came back home after a number of months of relying on this coffee I had a ridiculously high sugar addiction. Despite the sweetness, which you get used to, this was my favourite type of coffee to drink and left me quite full after it.

With that said, it is almost entirely refreshing to come back to a familiar place with an alien tourist palette and go back to drinking the coffee you once drank to boost you up for a day of work or study.

What I learnt out of travelling these places wasn’t just the different ways in which one bean can be presented, but that everyone has a story behind their brew. From the waiter telling me about the Turkish bride spiking coffee with salt, being told about the cat that eats coffee beans, or the broken fridge being an inspiration for a new recipe. They all have their own personal connection with something so simple that we consume every day.

With those six coffees in mind, try to explore your own experiences with the drink, and if you have had any others write it down in the word box below. There must be plenty out there.

 

Danube – Vietnam

Have you ever seen those tourists fall out of a kayak on a river boat cruise? You’re not a traveller until you’ve joined the club of embarrassment at falling in the Mekong River, in plain sight, with, at the very least, one-hundred spectators. Yes, that was me, adventurer Ben in all of my glory.

FullSizeRender-26Okay, for the backstory. It was my second day on a Mekong River tour in Vietnam. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to get on the trip given I am bit of a business nerd and wanted to learn more about the agricultural importance of the Mekong. The tour wouldn’t be for everyone, it goes through the culture of rice farm families, small industrial towns, the history of the Mekong and the future prospects of the different areas.

The more entertaining, and partially active, part of the trip is the kayaking in the Mekong. I say partially because, as we are all lazy travellers, the locals paddle the boats and tourists (of all shapes and sizes) hop in the kayaks in two’s and three’s.1524635_10152121316466047_912443208_n

Qui (from my featured image), my guide for the kayak ride was a former rice farmer-turned kayak extraordinaire. She put an effort into talking to people and telling them as much of the interesting side of the Mekong as possible. Qui enjoyed speaking gossip stories of which farmer’s wife was cheating and which farmer’s kids are being kept out of their parent’s will. At one point, she started speaking about the importance of the bamboo that grows along the Mekong’s shoreline. It creates a fine valuable paper and can be picked from the water. Qui motioned for me to grab some of the leaves to feel their texture. Bad mistake. I reached to the side, carefully, and outstretched to the tree. Before I knew it I was wading through the dirty coffee-like water to get back into the boat. Thanks Qui.

From that experience, I can now tell you I am closer than many other tourists to the Mekong, and I think I gave a good story for all of the other tourists to tell.

If I learnt anything out of that, it is to make sure you always take a dry-bag with you as my camera, phone and wallet remained dry, while the rest of me was covered in Vietnam’s pride.

Soho – Ho Chi Minh

My first visit to Vietnam was only supposed to be for a week. I had never really researched much into Vietnam. I was blind with assumptions about it being another South-East Asian country, specifically Ho Chi Minh. I had family living there at the time who hated travel, asian countries and any type of asian food – so I was tainted with the view of a cynic. Taking those words on board, on my third day in Ho Chi Minh, I cancelled my flight and ended up staying there for five weeks.

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Dried shrimp in the Saigon markets

Ho Chi Minh surprised me a lot. Yes, it still has that appeal that asian countries have, but Ho Chi is modern, trendy, chic and above all, classy. Of all of the places I have visited it is one of the few that I could actually live in for quite some time – which I later intend on doing.

I stayed in a hotel in Saigon at the time. I recommend staying in the centre as it is close access to everything. This proved handy for New Year’s Eve when getting anywhere was like trying to fight for room in a sardine tin. Vietnam’s environment wasn’t just a holiday

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Saigon is a very romantic area. A lot of couples have their wedding photos taken out the front of the beautiful Saigon Post Office

place, it was a living place too. Locals lived in the city, had normal jobs, and went out to the restaurants, bars and clubs like everyone else. It was evident that there was a much larger industry at play than just that of tourism as was for places like Thailand and Malaysia.

From what locals have told me, Vietnam is still yet to hit its peak overseas market as there are more people travelling to Malaysia and Thailand. For one, I am supportive of this as it is nice to go where there are no hordes of tourists passing through. Many a time I had found myself being the only western person in a crowded street in Vietnam, which really starts to bring the essence of travelling to life, which is, to experience difference in its purest form.

Rather than visiting tourist sites in Ho Chi Minh, my time was spent exploring the city’s backstreet cafes, restaurants and bars. A lot of the places found through back alleys or tucked away down quiet streets are often the most booming for

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Chinese buddhist joss house

their type. One of my favourites was L’usine, which for travellers, is very reminiscent, and could easily compete with, any upperclass western cafe. While roaming the streets, specifically in Saigon, the architecture has a very French influence given the former French colonisation of the area. Much of the city still has remnants of post-colonial influence and despite Vietnam’s ambition to separate itself from the stigma it still holds a strong presence in the city’s design and food as well. It’s not uncommon for a french patisserie to be located next to a noodle store all of which can be down the street from an amazing buddhist joss house.

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Vietnamese coffee on condensed milk (cafe suda)

A warning to travellers, be careful when drinking the coffee as it is very good and highly addictive. The Vietnamese version of Starbucks, Trung Nguyen Coffee, is on every street in Saigon, however caters to a more modern coffee drinker. But the straight coffee with (carfay suda) or straight black coffee (carfay da) which is what most of the locals drink and it is divine. Most of the cafes I went to provided the slow filter and glass of ice for the coffee which gives you that ‘make it yourself’ experience. The other delight, and thankfully also the best if you are on a budget, is pho (noodle soup). This is served on most street corners and any local diners and is a staple diet for the locals for breakfast, lunch and dinner.